By Teddy Wohlbold (entering class of 2011)
Even non-Manhattanites may be familiar with the posh reputation of the Upper East Side (UES), whether it be from the catchy theme song, “Movin’ On Up” from The Jeffersons, or from the portrayed stomping grounds of the privileged youth in Gossip Girl. It is no secret that this rather large neighborhood of Manhattan (spanning from East 59th to 96th street) is home to some of New York’s wealthiest aristocracy, including former mayor, Michael Bloomberg, comedian Ricky Gervais, and – not too long ago – the Queen of Pop herself, Madonna. Even the most crass at heart may find it difficult to enunciate “The Upper East Side” without holding a fancy cup of tea, pinky up. However, Mount Sinai is located on the far outskirts of the Upper East Side, where neighborhood boundaries begin to blur. In fact, while the New York Department of Buildings extends the definition of the Upper East Side to include 97th to 110th streets if one lives between 5th and Madison Avenues, Mount Sinai lies in the 10029 zip code, which mostly includes East Harlem (also known as Spanish Harlem, or “El Barrio”) to the north.
East Harlem is a predominantly Hispanic neighborhood that has had a historically high immigrant population over the past century and faces a myriad of socioeconomic (and healthcare) issues unfamiliar to those south of 96th street. However, one thing is clear, and that is that Mount Sinai is situated in a very unique environment, caught at the triple point intersection of three neighborhoods—the UES, Spanish Harlem, and Yorkville. This location has led to the formation of a unique niche of bars and eateries, many of which have a rather symbiotic relationship with Mount Sinai staff and students.
So while it is safe to assert that most twenty-somethings in the UES venture downtown to trendier areas like the East Village, Lower East Side, and Brooklyn for quality nightlife, it is crucial to know the local gems. One need only dodge the blaring Sinai-bound ambulances on 5th avenue, inch beyond the austere walls of the Icahn Medical Institute, and cross the Metro-North railroad tracks on Park (obviously, don’t literally go on the tracks) to discover a sanctuary of must-try bars, all within a one block + one avenue radius of Mount Sinai.
It is best to begin with Earl’s Beer and Cheese (average 4/5 stars by 260 reviewers on Yelp), located right across the street from Aron Hall on the northeast corner of Park Avenue and 97th Street. Entering the Christmas-light-decorated exterior of Earl’s reveals a cozy (~20 person capacity) bar with one large table, a few side stools, and a large hunting mural covering the entirety of the right wall. But don’t be fooled by its humble appearance, as the notoriety of Earl’s extends way beyond Mount Sinai’s backyard. New York beer and cheese aficionados travel far and wide from other chic NY neighborhoods to try and grab a seat at Earl’s. And while grabbing a seat is sometimes difficult due to its cozy size, it usually does not end up being an issue if you are willing to wait ~5 minutes. And the wait is worth it. The New Yorker lists Earl’s as one of the sole reasons to venture to the east nineties (along with needing medical treatment at Mount Sinai) and describes the crowd as “ebullient, but civilized. . . and mercifully free of frat house-yahoos”. A cursory glance at the Earl’s clientele will reveal a heavy Sinai presence, and it is typical to see residents still in scrubs from their earlier shifts. Proceed with caution when bringing a date, because there is an almost certain chance of being spotted by someone you know. Earl’s Beer and Cheese is aptly named, for the bar works wonders with those two ingredients, combining them in the most elegant fashion as beer cheese, a dish that has become something of a local legendintheSinaicommunity.Beercheese is a cheddar based cheese spread with a mixture of beer and other herbs and spices for flavor, served at Earl’s with hearty pieces of toasted bread and whole chunks of garlic, allowing you to allot the garlic in the style you choose. Others rave about the NY state cheddar grilled cheese sandwich with pork belly, kimchi, and a fried egg. There are usually ~8 beers on tap, and the brews change on a weekly basis.
“Who exactly is Earl?” you may ask. Well, as Gina Cesari – who currently co- owns the bar with her brother (and original owner) Michael Cesari – explains, Earl is not the name of a person, but rather a fusion of the name East Harlem. “The concept [of the restaurant] was to have great food and to provide a space for people in the neighborhood. The name Earl’s was kind of a hybrid of [the words] East [and] Harlem. Everyone was calling it SpaHa but my brother thought of Earl.” However, she admits, Earl has sort of informally been adopted as the name of the bar’s trademark, a pig sporting a green top hat and antlers.
If you stumble out of Earl’s and take one or two steps to the right, you may inherently be drawn to a large, bright red door. Although the establishment lacks of any other insignia, feel free to enter, for that door is the only gateway to the Guthrie Inn, another local treasure. In many ways, the Guthrie Inn (4.5/5 stars by 51 reviewers on Yelp) is Earl’s’ sister bar, though there is no joint ownership. Patrons often hop between the two establishments, seeking perhaps a steeper drink alternative at The Guthrie (a whiskey bar, by class) while satisfying their hunger back at Earl’s. Sadly, The Guthrie forbids food in their establishment, so best to gobble up that beer cheese prior to entering! Sparks light up the dark ambiance at the Guthrie (literally) if you ask for my personal favorite drink, the Blood and Sand (a mix of scotch, orange juice, and sweet vermouth), which is traditionally topped off by flaming orange zeal over the top of the glass. If Tom (smaller guy, curly hair, glasses) is bartending, be sure to ask for his signature, Thyme After Tom, which comes complete with a twig of thyme. If you wander into the back of the bar, you’ll find a little alcove that is perfect for small groups.
Slightly beyond The Guthrie is Dough Loco (4/5 stars by 66 reviewers on Yelp), a recent addition to the scene at Park and 97th. Initially launched as a Kickstarter campaign, Dough Loco successfully opened last year, and boasts Blue Bottle coffee, as well as some crazy homemade doughnut concoctions (pun intended) including Raspberry Sriracha, Maple Miso (my personal favorite), Blood Orange, and Cinnamon Sugar. But the early bird gets the worm – well doughnut, in this case – as these savory treats often sell out by the afternoon. Critics on Yelp cite the high cost ($3) of the doughnuts, but loyal customers say they are worth the dough. Interestingly, Dough Loco is co-owned by Michael Cesari, the same co-owner as Earl’s. Mr. Cesari’s contributions to the East Harlem neighborhood do not end at these two establishments. He also is the main owner of ABV (3.5/5 stars by 179 reviewers on Yelp), a must try wine-bar at 97th and Lex, Vinyl Wine shop on Lex between 96th and 97th, and perhaps the newest addition, Steep Rock Bouldering (also 97th and Lex), which offers a day of indoor rock climbing for $20 (+$5 for shoes and a chalk bag). In the food options at Earl’s and ABV, you may notice the infusion of Asian styles and spices into a seemingly traditional American menu (remember the pork belly and kimchi on the grilled cheese?). If you did, you’re certainly not crazy, as this is the signature of the famous NY chef Corey Cova, who has had influences on the menus of both Earl’s and ABV, and who is perhaps most well known for his work at the Momofuku Ssäm Bar. Be sure to follow him on Twitter @coreycova if you’re a die-hard foodie.
So while the “trendier” youth of Manhattan may seldom venture north of Grand Central, it is still possible to take pride in the smattering of local treasures in Sinai’s backyard. It’s safe to say those hipsters don’t know what they’re missing, and – hey – that’s more beer cheese for us!